Pâté feuilletée. Hm, where to begin. Prepare for a wordy post.
Puff pastry is a delicious base for any number of sweet or savory pastries. It’s hard to go wrong when you start off with a pound of butter! Despite its impressive puffy transformation from 1/8″ to inch(es) and the laminating technique of layering butter between the flour-water detrempe, the dough is not difficult to make.
The recipe below is from a one-day pastry class with the owner of La Bedaine, a tiny French bakery-deli-prepared meals shop on Solano Ave. in North Berkeley.
[About 2.5 lb dough, 20 mille-feuilles, 20 vols-au-vent]
15 oz AP flour
2 oz butter, very soft
1 C water (+/1 depending on humidity)
5 g salt (2-3 large pinches)
1 lb butter, very soft
4 oz flour
1. The key to a good puff pastry is in gently preparing the detrempe. Place the flour on your (large) work surface and make a well in the center. Mix 2 oz butter, salt, and 1/2 C of water in the well with one hand and incorporate only a very little flour to form a very smooth paste. This step will take some time, don’t rush it. Add in the remaining 1/2 C of water into the paste and mix well.
By incorporating the flour slowly and gently in the beginning you ensure that gluten will not develop in the detrempe and make the pastry tough or shrink when you roll it.
2. Starting from the outside of the flour mound sweep the flour towards the center and into the butter mixture. With your fingers only gently lift and sprinkle the flour and butter together repeatedly to incorporate. Do not wash your hands, instead add a little more flour to rub off the excess dough back into the detrempe. The mixture will be crumbly at this point.
3. With a plastic pastry scraper scrape from the bottom of the dough and fold back inwards towards the center, pressing the dough firmly to help it form. Continue doing so until the dough holds together into a ball.
4. Quickly “knead” / work the dough in a circular motion 3-4 times. At this stage the detrempe should be smooth and not spring back when you press a finger into it. Set the dough aside while you prepare your butter packet.
5. Mix 1 lb of soft butter with the 4 oz of flour until smooth. Form the mixture into a square (about 6×6″) on 1-2 reserved butter wrappers.
6. Take the detrempe ball and with a rolling pin roll 4 opposite corners into a diamond shape (large enough to envelope your butter packet). Place the butter packet in the center of the detrempe on the diagonal and fold the corners over the butter to wrap the packet inside – like a letter fit inside an envelope. Make sure the butter is well sealed inside by the detrempe & not sticking out. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill in fridge for at least 2 hrs or better yet overnight.
Making the turns:
7. Take out your chilled dough and set it on a lightly floured counter. Bang the dough lightly with your wooden rolling pin to soften up the butter inside. Avoid such firm thrashing that the butter breaks through the detrempe.
8. Begin to roll the dough, pushing it into a long rectangle. For a single turn the dough needs to be about the single length of your rolling pin. For a double turn roll the dough to 1 1/2 times the length of your rolling pin.
9. For most puff pastry recipes you’ll want to make a total of 5-6 turns (rolling and folding of the dough to create thousands of layers). There are two methods – the single or double turn. 1 double turn = 1.5 single turns (eek! maths).
The double turn is quicker to complete and works just as well. Some chefs will complete 2 single turns and 2 double turns for a total of 5 turns. I complete 2 double turns each round for a total of 6 turns. The only trickery to rolling puff pastry is needing to rest and chill the dough for at least 2 hours between every 2 turns (either single or double).
Single turn – Fold the rectangular dough into thirds like a letter.
Double turn – Fold the bottom and top short ends of your dough towards the center of the rectangle. Fold the top half over onto the bottom half so you have 4 layers of dough in a thick square.
10. Turn your packet of dough 90 degrees so that the raw edges of the dough are pointing towards your belly and opposite you. (In other words the folded edges of the dough face to the sides). Repeat rolling the dough into either 1 or 1 1/2 rolling pin lengths and complete the turn with a single or double turn.
11. Wrap and chill the dough for 2 hours or more.
12. Complete 2 more turns as described from #9.
At this point the dough can be folded one last time (unrolled) and frozen up to 1 month well wrapped. Thaw in the fridge to use.
OR Continue with your recipe.
Chill the rolled-out pastry for several hours before baking to ensure that the gluten relaxes and the pastry will not shrink in the oven.